Hi Sew lovers!
I want to thank everyone of you that joined me on the journey called “Crafty May”. All through May(in case you are joining us here for the first time, we got crafty;made a lot of stuffs ranging from leather handbags to Ankara handbags. Even though we didn’t get to do all that we planned to do before the month’s end, we did some. Hopefully at intervals through our regular Monday tutorials, we will do the rest of them which include, makeup purses, hats and possibly wallets. So thank you all once again for being a part of it and for leaving your comments(although I wished there were more).
But now it’s time to get back to sewing and I have so much to show you guys. But first, on today’s tutorial, I’m going to explain with illustrations on how to make the above blouse pattern(a basic blouse with Princess seam). Let me begin by explaining what a pattern is and what a princess dart is for those who don’t have the slightest clue or know them by a different name
A ‘pattern‘ means in this context, a rough sheet of paper, scrap fabric, newspaper/magazine used to construct the design we want to see on our fabric. So rather than go straight to cutting out our design or style on our fabric, we begin first with our scrap paper, fabric or newspaper. This is because we do not want to end up wasting our fabrics due to mistakes or imperfections. So making a pattern helps you straight out all you want to straighten out and also help you decide which design you want to make before you trace and cut them out from your fabric.
Princess seam: Have you ever wanted to make a padded blouse and didn’t have the faintest idea how to begin? Well this is where Princess dart/seam comes in. A princess seam/dart is a long rounded seam sewn into women’s blouses, shirts or jackets, to add shaping or a tailored fit to closely follow a woman’s shape. They are sewn into the front and/or back of a shirt, blouse or gown and usually extend from the waist up to the arms. They are slightly different from the regular darts we know because they run continuously from either the top of the blouse or arm region of the blouse to the end of it.
There are several ways to construct a princess seam/dart. It could be either from the (1)armhole region,(2)neck or (3)from the shoulders. Some are cut through completely and then joined back to the garment or are nipped through.
1. Scrap paper/fabric/newspaper/cardboard e.t.c: If you are beginner, please use any one of the items listed, because this is just a pattern, like earlier mentioned. So we are not going to be using our fabric of choice.
5. Measuring tape and Tracing wheel
6. Already-made T-shirt or blouse to trace
Now that we have all that we need, let’s begin
1. Making the Front Piece: Fold one of your scrap paper/fabric/newspaper/brown paper into equal halves. Like this:
Then, fold your already-made blouse(with sleeves tucked or cut off) into equal halves also. Place it on your scrap paper and trace 1.5 inches away from the folded area. The 1.5 inches is to accommodate for seam and stitch allowance. When done, remove your already-made blouse and your scrap paper would look like this:
With the following dimensions:
2. Making the Back pieces: Fold your second scrap paper into equal halves and then place your front piece(which should be folded back into equal halves) 1.5” away from the folded area. Unlike the front piece, the 1.5 inches is to accommodate for zip allowance, since this pattern is for a non-stretch fabric. When done, remove your front piece and your second scrap paper will look like this:
I hope you enjoyed today’s tutorial? If however, you have any questions, kindly leave them on the comment box below and I’ll respond to them as soon as I see them. Don’t forget that you can also reach me through my regular channels(see below) with any question or query you may have.
Also see: How to Make Corset Pattern
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