Hi sew lover
Welcome to today’s tutorial and we are going to be looking briefly at a How to make a Blazer jacket and Suits.
I’ll be dropping the pattern-drafting of how to make a blazer jacket tutorial here. To learn how to sew the blazer jacket, please click here to download the sewing video straight to your mobile phone, desktop/laptop.
So in today’s tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to draft both the peak-pointed lapel type of blazer jacket and also the shawl collar( aka tuxedo lapel)(see variant of this tutorial here). We are also going to include the shoulder princess seam dart(to learn more about all the various princess seam darts and how to use them to make breast padded outfits, please click here)
Please note that this tutorial is for Intermediates
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What is a Peak-Pointed Lapel Jacket.
This is literally any jacket where the lapel and collar intersect or meet. This effect is created mostly when the collar is joined to the lapel while sewing. So I may not be able to elaborate on this during this tutorial. So to see how to carefully join the lapel and collar together to create a Peak-pointed effect, then register for our Online Classes today or download the tutorial from our Online stores here.
What is a Shawl collar blazer jacket?
Just like the name suggests, it is a blazer jacket with a shawl collar. Read more about shawl collar jackets here.
1..Basic Bodice Block: As earlier mentioned in so many sewing projects and tutorials we’ve treated(see them here), a basic bodice block is one of the foundations of garment construction. You can literally adjust it to anything you want. It is that great once you know how to draft one.
Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
2. Pattern papers
3. Body statistics: The body measurement required in this tutorial are:
- Bust circumference: Place your measuring tape loosely around your bust and measure. Using me as an example, my bust circumference is 38 inches
- Jacket length: Place your measuring tape at the base of your neck and measure how long you want your jacket to be. For the sake of this tutorial, the jacket length will be 24 inches.
- Waist to High hip: This is the distance between your waist and lower abdomen. Place your measuring tape at the waist level and measure the distance between your waist and abdomen. For the sake of this tutorial, the distance is 5 inches.
- Bust-to-Bust: This is the horizontal distance between one bust point to another. For the sake of this tutorial, the distance is 7 inches.
So the entire procedure of making a blazer jacket will be adjusting our basic bodice block to a blazer jacket and since we have two types of jacket to create, we will begin with the peak-pointed lapel and then move to the next.
Peak-pointed Lapel Blazer jacket
Before we dive right into adjusting our bodice, it is important to note the following dimensions used to draft our basic bodice.
- Front neckline: 3 inches wide x 2.5 inches long
- Back neckline:3 inches wide x 1.5 long
- Bust level: (1/4 x bust measurement)+ 1.5 inches seam allowance
(1/4 x 38 inches) + 1.5 inches = 9.5 inches + 1.5 inches = 11 inches
- Waist level: (1/4 x waist measurement)+ 1 inch for dart + 1.5 inches seam allowance
(1/4 x 34 inches)+ 1+ 1.5= 8.5 + 1+ 1.5 =11 inches.
So with all that out of the way, let’s begin
Step 1: From the shoulder of your basic block, Measure the jacket length and mark(See requirement)
Extend the line to create a horizontal line AB
Step 2: Measure 1.5 inches from line AB and mark.
Extend the line to create a horizontal line CD
Step 3:Then draw the vertical lines of the Centre front and centre back of the blocks to meet line CD
Step 4: At the hip line(line AB) Measure 1/4 of your hip measurement from the Centre front of both the front and back pieces and mark
Using me as a client, my hip measurement is 44 inches.
1/4 x 44 inches = 11 inches
Step 5: Draw a line from the waistline to meet these points at the hipline
Step 6: From the hip line, draw a curve to meet the hemline
Step 7: Highlight the bust level and the waist level
Since the jacket we are going to make will have a shoulder princess seam, we will proceed to measure 2 inches from the neckline at the front and the mid-shoulder of the back piece.
Step 8: At the front piece, measure 1 inch from the bust level and mark.
Step 9: Measure half of your bust-to-bust measurement and mark.
Using me as a client, my bust-to bust measurement is 7 inches
1/2 x 7 inches = 3.5 inches
Step 10: Measure your waist to High-Hip(see requirements) and mark.
Step 11: Then insert your waist dart as shown below.
Don’t know how to insert waist darts, visit here to take TheQEffectz Patterndrafting course for Beginners.
Step 12: Manipulate the regular dart into a Princess seam( see here to learn more about princess seams)
Step 13: Mark 0.5 inch from the Center-Back line and mark
Step 14: Then adjust the Centre Back Line accordingly. See photo below
Step 15: Measure 0.75 inch from the center front line and mark.
This will serve as your placket for your jacket.
Step 16: Then also measure 1.5 inch from the placket and mark. This will serve as your lapel
Step 17: Then draw a curve to from the new point to meet anywhere on bodice.
If you want your lapel to stop at the bustlevel, then draw your curve towards the bust level
If you want your lapel to stop at the waist level, then draw your curve towards the waist level
Step 18: Then at the bottom of the front piece, draw a curve to join point B to D
Step 19: Slash through your blazer block.
When done, your front and back pieces will look like this:
As we have often said here on TheQEffectz, whenever you make a slash on your pattern from a block, always add back what you have slashed. This is because a block is usually draft using the precised measurement of the body model. Otherwise, when you cut your pattern out on your fabric, and join them together without accommodating for the slash or stitch allowances, your garment will become too small
Thus, add back the following slash values:
- Front dart= 1 inch to the waist
- Back dart= 0.5 inch to all sides
- Centre Back= 0.5 inch to the waist.
Note that these values do not include seam or ease allowances. So ensure you add them to the seam allowances of the pattern
Recommended seam allowances:
- Shoulder= 0.25inch
- Armhole= 0.25inch
- Bust= 1 inch
- Waist= 1 inch
- Sides = 1 inch
- Hem= 0.5 inch
Step 20: Make a collar. See here to learn how to draft a collar
Step 21 :Make the sleeves pattern. See here to learn how to make the various types of sleeves and even how to cut the perfect armhhole.
Step 22: Make over-pieces for your jacket. This usually consist of facing and lining. While the mid front pieces and neckline of your back pieces will consist of your fabric, the others can be cut out from lining
Learn more about this here.
Shawl collar Jacket
Shawl collar Jacket is a tutorial I’ve already treated. So to learn how to draft a shawl collar blazer jacket, please click here to download the tutorial straight to your mobile devices, desktop/laptop.
So that’s it guys.
So see how to sew a blazer jacket with welt pockets from scratch, please click here or take a peek into the sewing video tutorial by hitting the play button below
And that concludes our tutorial today. I hope it was very easy to understand. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Leave your questions on the comment box below. And don’t forget that you can always place a request for any tutorial you wish to see here. If it is a topic we have treated before, you will be redirected to where you can find the tutorial but if it has not been treated before, we’ll treat it as soon as we can.
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So till next time for more free tutorials, kisses!
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