Welcome to this week’s free tutorial- How to draft a breast-padded blouse pattern with Orgami Accordion Sleeves
By the way, I stumbled on our photo of interest on Pinterest. I literally ransack the internet looking for the true owner of the photo because I wanted to give the designer of the outfit his or her due credit. Besides the fact that they deserve it, it was the right thing to do. As a fashion designer and blogger, I totally understand what it means for your work to be republished without consent or due credit. It’s the price of Internet. However, to me, it’s important that credit goes to whom it is due.
So please if you are the true owner of this work of art, please contact us so that we can do the needful.
Thank you for your understanding
So when i stumbled on the outfit, I was totally blown away. Unfortunately, I am currently in a state where I can not wear outfits like this. So it was a shame that all I could do was gawk at it.Anyway, I decided I’ll draft the design anyway until I am in the right body shape to cut, sew and wear it.
So if you want to learn how to draft a pattern for this blouse style, please stick around and don’t hesitate to enter your email address in the box below to subscribe to our website for absolutely free if you are not yet a subscriber.
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ABOUT THE OUTFIT
So to be able to draft this outfit, it is always important to assess or to dissect it in your mind. This way, you will be able to understand how it was put together to come alive.
So our outfit is:
- A breastpadded peplum blouse. Yup!
- Which was demarcated at the upper bust level and separated into upper and lower bodice pieces. While the upper bodice was made from lace, the lower was from George material I think
- The sleeve was made from lace of the same color and was designed using orgami accordion sleeves. For those who are familar with Orgami TR cutting, cutting these sleeves might come pretty easy for you. For those who are not, you might want to visit here to learn all about Orgami TR Cutting. Having a little knowledge of it, might make understanding this tutorial a whole lot better.
- The blouse comprises of two peplia- a longer and short peplum, box-pleated at the sides of the blouse.
So now that we have an idea of how our blouse works, we can now go on to create a draft for it.
Please note that this tutorial is for I
ntermediate or Expert sewists.
P.S I worked on this project using my Valentina CAD. For those not familar with the term. Valentina CAD is a flat patterndrafting software that allows you to create electronic or digital patterns using real life body measurements. So I was able to create drafts using my real life body measurements using the software so that when I’m ready to cut and sew it, I can always print it out and use. Because the outfit above isn’t my design, etiquette demands that I do not draft this pattern commercially. It’s copyright infringement.
To see my own designs and to download electronic patterns for them, please click here
So as I was saying, the images you will see below are only photos from the draft and not the draft itself.
To learn how to draft electronic patterns using real life body measurements, click here to take the full course now. The course will be available from November, 10th, 2019.
Even though, the photos of the drafts below were created from a pattern-drafting software, you can still follow the procedures used to create a draft for your client or for a client using real life patterndrafting papers and procedures. The steps are the same.
So to draft a pattern for this blouse, you will need:
- 1..Basic Bodice Block: As earlier mentioned in so many sewing projects and tutorials we’ve treated(see them here), a basic bodice block is one of the foundations of garment construction. You can literally adjust it to anything you want. It is that great once you know how to draft one. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
- Sleeve block: In this tutorial, you will need your sleeve pattern or block. Don’t know how to draft a sleeve pattern or block, please click here.
- Pattern- papers
- Tracing papers
- Body measurements: Besides the body measurements used to draft your basic bodice, you will need:
- Waist to Hip: This is the distance between your waist and hip. For the sake of this tutorial, the waist to hip is 10inches.
- Bust to bust: This is the distance between one bust point and the other. For the sake of this tutorial, the bust to bust measurement is 7 inches.
6. Patterndrafting tools eg. French curves, Straight ruler, Markers/ Pen/Pencil
The entire process of drafting a pattern for this outfit, involves adjusting the basic bodice block and sleeves accordingly.
Step 1: On the front piece, from the top of the armhole, measure 2.5 inches and mark.
Do the same for the back piece.
Step 2: Measure half of your bust-to-bust measurement from the centre front and back line at the waistlevel of both your front and back piece respectively and mark. In this case, my bust-to-bust measurement is 7 inches.
Therefore: 1/2 x 7 inches = 3.5 inches
Step 3: From the bust level at the Centre front, measure the distance between the bust level and the under bust and mark
Do the same for the Centre Back and then draw a horizontal line to join both points.
Step 4: Repeat “Step 2” at the bust level at both the front and back pieces, and mark
Step 5: Draw a vertical line joining both the point at the bust level and the waist level at both the front and back pieces
Step 6: Insert your breast padded drafting technique at this point. See how to do this here.
When done, your breastpadded bodice will look like this:
Step 7: Measure your princess seam lines to be sure they tally. The side princess seam line is usually shorter, so adjust the line by adding back the difference as so:
Then measure you connect your armhole curve accordingly. Repeat the same for the back piece
Step 8: From the top of the centre front line,measure the distance between the neck and the upper bust and mark.
Step 9: Draw a horizontal from this point to the back piece
This will be your upper bust level.
Step 10: Next, adjust the neckline of both the front and back pieces, by measuring 1. inches from the armhole.
For the front piece, draw a concave curve or sweetheart neckline from the upper bust level to the mark on the armhole as shown below:
Do the opposite for the back piece. Draw a convex curve or scoop neckline from the upper bust level to the bust level
Step 11: At the centre back, measure 1 inch for zip allowance. Extend the line to the waistlevel
Step 13: Measure 0.5(1cm) from the centre back at the waist level
Do the same from the zip allowance and mark
Step 14: Adjust your centre back line and zip line accordingly.
Step 15: Because we have create alot of adjustment on our block especially at the bust and waistlevel, it is necessary to add this adjustments back into the pattern, otherwise, if we trace them and cut them on our fabric, they will become too small to wear .
Therefore, these are the following ease allowances we will add back to our pattern:
- Front piece= 2 inches
- Back piece = 2.5 inches.
Adjust the armhole accordingly
Step 16: Fold a new pattern paper into two equal halves. The length of all sides should be 20 inches.
Step 17: So from the “About the outfit” section of this tutorial, we described our peplum to be boxpleated at the both sides of the front piece. It is also safe to assume the peplum was also pleated at the back pieces for more flare effect. Therefore, we will need to add a certain amount of fabric to create the boxpleats. For the sake of this tutorial, we all be adding 2 inches for the box pleats.
Therefore, divide your waist circumference by 4 inches
Using me as an example, my waist circumference is 34 inches.
34inches /4 = 8.5 inches
8.5 inches +2 inches = 10 inches
So now that we know what our waist cirumference will be in our pattern paper, we have to determine the radius(that is the length along B-B1 & B-B2. To determine this, we will need to go back to our secondary/high school days when we were taught about circles.
If I can recall correctly, the circumference of a circle is 2πr
But since what we are drafting is in 2 folds i.e 4 sides, our new circumference will thus be
C = πr/2
Hence, we already know what our circumference is, as well as our π value. If I can recall correctly, π is 22/7 or 3.142. What we are looking for is the radius(r)
So using our newly adjusted formula above,
10 inches = 3.142r/2
10inches = 1.547r
Therefore, r = 10inches / 1.571
r = 6.4 approx.
So now that we have our radius, we can now measure this value from B to B1 and mark and also from B to B2 creating an arc as we go. To see this in action, please visit here
Step 18: Also from our “About the outfit” or the photo of interest, we noticed that we have two peplia, longer one(bottom peplum) and shorter one(top peplum). For the sake of this tutorial, we will assume that the top peplum is 7 inches longer while the bottom below is 10 inches long.
Therefore to determine the radii of both peplia:
- Top peplum = 6.4 + 7 = 13.4
- Bottom peplum = 6.4 + 10 = 16.4
So from point B to B1 , measure 13.4 and from there to B-B2 creating an arc as you go for the top peplum
Repeat the same for the bottom peplum of 16.4 radius.
Step 19: At the B9, Measure 1 inch for zip allowance
And then draw a vertical line to the bottom peplum.
Step 20: Measure 1 inch from the sleeve cap and mark, measure 1.5 inches from the elbow and mark.
Draw a vertical line to join these points
Measure this line and write it down
Step 21: Get a new pattern paper and measure out the value you wrote out as either a vertical or horizontal line, whichever you prefer.
Step 22: Draw an arc from one point to the other..
Step 23: Cut out all that you have drafted and add seam allowances around them. Usually I add:
- Bodice: 0.25 inch around the neckline, shoulder(where any), armhole and inseams and hem. But I add 1 inch for the sides.
- Sleeve: 0.25inch around armscye and 1 inch for hem
- Peplum: 0.25inch for waist and said but 1 inch for hem
- Accordion pleats: 0.25inch seam allowance all around
Just incase you are wondering what the accordion pleats will look on the sleeve. Here is a little preview
So that’s it guys, how to draft a breastpadded Orgami Accordion pleat blouse. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave them on the comment box below or you can contact us anytime for help or assistance.
Don’t forget to also tag us on Facebook or Instagram when you make this outfit using our tutorial. It will mean so much to us to get feedbacks from you. So till next time for more free tutorials, keep sewing and kisses!