[Free tutorial] HOW TO MAKE A BREASTPADDED SIDE SLIT GOWN WITH CAPE & PEPLUM

Hi Sewlover

Welcome to the Second part of the Asoebi Collection look 1. Here we will be looking at how to make the second dress; The Breast padded Cape Side slit dress(the dress on the right)

See how to make the first dress here

To make things easier, I’ll be referring to most of the steps in Part 1, so if you haven’t seen it yet, please ensure you do.

TABLE OF CONTENT

ABOUT DRESS 2:

  1. It is a sideslitted gown
  2. The bodice of the outfit is breastpadded
  3. A cape runs from one side of the front and back bodice to the waist
  4. A peplum cape also runs from the centre front and back of the skirt part of the outfit to the side seam

REQUIREMENTS

  1. Basic Bodice Block: As earlier mentioned in so many sewing projects and tutorials we’ve treated(see them here), a basic bodice block is one of the foundations of garment construction. You can literally adjust it to anything you want. It is that great once you know how to draft one. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
  2. Skirt block: A skirt block is also one of the foundation of garment construction. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here. Just like basic bodice block, you can modify them into any skirt design you want.
  3. Sleeve block: In this tutorial, you will need your sleeve pattern or block. Don’t know how to draft a sleeve pattern or block, please click here.
  4. Pattern- papers
  5. Tracing papers
  6. Pattern-drafting tools eg. French curves, Straight ruler, Markers/ Pen/Pencil
  7. Body measurements: Besides the body measurements used to draft your basic bodice, skirt block and sleeve pattern, you will need:
  • High Hip Length- This is the distance between your waist and Highhip.
  • Under-butt length- This is the distance between the waist and underbutt.
  • Bustpoint to UnderBust- This is the distance between the bust point and underbust.
  • Knee to ground- This is the distance between your knee and the floor.

PROCEDURES:

Just like Part 1, we are going to be adjusting the various blocks, i.e The basic bodice, skirt and sleeve block.

ADJUSTING THE BASIC BODICE BLOCK

Step 1: Repeat step 1-6 in Part 1

Step 2: Extend the CF line about 3. inches forwardand draw a curve from there to the shoulder as shown

Repeat the process for the back piece but the curves should be at the bust level

Step 3: Remember to add back any contour value adjusted at the waist and bust level, back to the side seams of the bodice

Step 4: Trace your adjusted bodice on a new pattern paper and add seam allowances on all sides.

When done, your front and back bodice will look like these:

Step 5 : Also trace out the front and corresponding back cape from the front and back bodice and add seam allowances around them as well.

You will need to cut 2 of these each in a fold while cutting out your fabric and of course add interfacing to it to add more structure.

See how to do this in TheQEffectz 2020 Intermediate class. Register now.

Front cape
Back cape

ADJUSTING THE SKIRT BLOCK

Step 1: Repeat 1-10 in Part 1

Step 2: At the side seams and at the underbutt level, measure 1 inch and mark. Do the seam for the corresponding back piece and draw a horizontal line to the hem of the skirt.

This will be side slit of the skirt.

Step 3: Fold a new pattern paper into equal halves and trace out your new front and back pieces.

Don’t forget to add seam allowances and ease allowances around the pattern. Also add hem allowance at the bottom of each piece.

When done, they should look like these:

DRAFTING THE CAPE

Step 1: Repeat step 1-8 in Part 1

Step 2: Measure 0.5 inch from the CF & CB at the hip level.

Step 3: Draw two concave curves from the mark on the front piece to the mark on the back piece

Step 4: Trace out the curves on a new pattern paper and add seam allowances around the new pieces.

When done, they will look like these.

ADJUSTING THE SLEEVE PATTERN

Step 1: Repeat step 1-4 in Part 1

Step 2: Measure 3 inches from the new sleeve crown and mark

Make a curve from side to the other like so:

Step 3: Cut through the curve and your sleeve pattern will look like this:

Step 4: Slash and spread the sleeve

When done, your new sleeve pattern with seam allowances(which will have to be pleated while sewing) will look like this:

And you are done!

Want to learn how to sew these dresses? then click here to register for TheQEffectz Intermediate Class this June. Registration is already in progress to end May 31st, 2020. 10% discount for early birds. This offer will only last till March 31st 2020.

Remember that as either a local or international student, you can also be part of this class( see requirements for participation). Because these classes will be held on telegram, you can always assess your messenger app and from anywhere. To participate in the classes though, you will have to join us at about 7:00pm GMT Lagos time.

96% of the courses will be in video format so you will need to have good internet connection to be able to view or download them.

Courses available include

  • Pattern-drafting
  • Sewing
  • Business and Entrepreneurship
  • Design and contouring

See cost of training

See how to pay in naira

See how to pay in USD

To see how to make the first dress, please click here

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Published by Quincy

Hi, I'm Quincy, a fashion designer, gist and story writer...Welcome to my blog.I hope you find a home here...kisses!

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