[Free tutorial] HOW TO MAKE A BREASTPADDED STRAIGHT GOWN WITH GATHERED & STRAIGHT SLEEVES

Hi sewlover,

So this tutorial is part 1 of the patterndrafting tutorial for these outfits. Here we will be looking at how to make the first dress of the style of asoebis(the dress on the left). It is as a matter of fact, the beginning of asoebi styles I will be treating here possibly every weekend when I get the chance.

Like I mentioned before, Nigerian fashion designs are becoming the boldest and most daring designs in the whole of Africa. I don’t mean to brag but our asoebi designs are literally the best. So as a fashion designer, you really do not want to be left out especially when you are called upon to make these kinds of outfits.

It will not only be beneficial to you financially if you can make these outfits but it will also boost your career and promote your work.

So make sure you are a part of our Intermediate training this June. Registrations are still ongoing till May 31st, 2020. Remember, early birds get 10 discount and till this offer will only be available till March 31st, 2020

TO REGISTER, CLICK HERE

TABLE OF CONTENT

ABOUT DRESS 1

Disclaimer:

By the way, I stumbled on our photo of interest on Pinterest. I literally ransack the internet looking for the true owner of the photo because I wanted to give the designer of the outfit his or her due credit. Besides the fact that they deserve it, it was the right thing to do. As a fashion designer and blogger, I totally understand what it means for your work to be republished without consent or due credit. It’s the price of Internet. However, to me, it’s important that credit goes to whom it is due.

So please if you are the true owner of this work of art, please contact us so that we can do the needful.

Thank you for your understanding

-Quincy Kanayo

From our photocover, style is obviously:

  1. An off the shoulder gown
  2. With Bogus sleeves and long sleeves to the wrist
  3. The bodice of the gown is Breastpadded using Princess seam from the neck
  4. The outfit is obviously made from lace, hence from a nonstretch fabric which suggests that there must be a zipper at the centre back

REQUIREMENT:

  1. Basic Bodice Block: As earlier mentioned in so many sewing projects and tutorials we’ve treated(see them here), a basic bodice block is one of the foundations of garment construction. You can literally adjust it to anything you want. It is that great once you know how to draft one. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
  2. Skirt block: A skirt block is also one of the foundation of garment construction. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here. Just like basic bodice block, you can modify them into any skirt design you want.
  3. Sleeve block: In this tutorial, you will need your sleeve pattern or block. Don’t know how to draft a sleeve pattern or block, please click here.
  4. Pattern- papers
  5. Tracing papers
  6. Pattern-drafting tools eg. French curves, Straight ruler, Markers/ Pen/Pencil
  7. Body measurements: Besides the body measurements used to draft your basic bodice, skirt block and sleeve pattern, you will need:
  • High Hip Length- This is the distance between your waist and Highhip.
  • Under-butt length- This is the distance between the waist and underbutt.
  • Bustpoint to UnderBust- This is the distance between the bust point and underbust.
  • Knee to ground- This is the distance between your knee and the floor.

PROCEDURE

The entire process of drafting a pattern for this outfit, involves adjusting the basic bodice block, Skirt block and sleeve pattern accordingly.

So this tutorial will be divided into (a) Adjusting the Basic Bodice Block (b)Adjusting the Basic Skirt Block (c) Adjusting the sleeve pattern

ADJUSTING THE BASIC BODICE BLOCK

Because both sides of the front bodice is similar, I will be using just one side of front bodice during my modification

Step 1: Trace out your front bodice on a new pattern paper and mark out the various body levels, i.e Upper-bust(UPB), Bust(B), Under-Bust(UNB), Waist(W)

Step 2: From the centre front at the bust level and underbust level, measure half of your bust-to-bust measurement.

Step 3: At the Centre-front( neckline), measure 2 inches towards to the shoulder and mark

Step 4: Connect the mark at the neckline and the bust mark.

Step 5: Draw your bust circle. (see how to do this here)

Step 6: Insert your contour darts

Step 7: Adjust the neckline like so:

Step 8: Like i always say during my lessons, any slash you make on a sloper, ensure to add back that slash value. So lets assume my waist contour dart was 2 inches. We will add this value back to the side seam to our bodice.

Step 9: When you fold a new paper pattern in equal halves and draft out your adjusted pattern, cut and open, your front bodice will look like this

Step 10: Add your seam allowances including ease at the side seams.

To see all of these in action, please take the full course I have already made on Corset-making. All topics of the course are in Video(.mp4) format.

So now that we are done with the front bodice, we will proceed to back bodice.

Step 11: Trace your back bodice on a new pattern paper and measure 1.25″ and mark

This will serve as your zip allowance

Step 12: Mark out the various body levels on the bodice.

Step 13: To prevent the zipper from bulging out at the back waist line, measure 0.5″ at both the zip allowances and CB and mark

Step 14: Adjust the CB and zipline accordingly.

Step 15: At the bust level, measure half of your bust-to -bust measurement and mark

Step 16: Adjust the neckline like so

Step 17: Insert waist dart the same dart value as the front bodice.

Step 18: Add back the dart value and CB intake at the side seam

Step 19: When you slash through your pattern, your back bodice will look like this:

Step 20: Add your seam allowances around the pattern and ease at the side seams

And you are done with the bodice.

ADJUSTING THE SKIRT BLOCK

Step 1: Inorder to speed up the adjustment process, I will be adjusting both the front and back piece simultaneously.

To begin, I’ll extend the length of the skirt to the ankle by measuring the knee to ankle length,

Step 2: Measure 1.25 inches from the CB and mark

This will serve as the zip allowance.

Step 3: To prevent the zipper from bulging at the waist, contour the waist at the CB and zip line by removing 0.5″

Step 4: Readjust the CB and zipline accordingly

Step 5 : From the CF and CB, measure half of your bust-to-bust measurement and mark.

Step 6: Insert waist darts at these new mark of 4 inches and 4.5 inches respectively; the width of which should be similar to those at the front and back bodice.

Step 7: Add back the waist dart value to the side seams including the contour dart the CB.

Step 8: Adjust the side seams accordingly

Step 9: Now, its time to contour the skirt in such a such a way that it brings out the shape of the wearer.

At the Underbutt level, measure 2 inches from the CB like so:

Also measure the same value from the side seams of the front skirt.

Step 10: Readjust the front and back skirt accordingly.

Step 11: Fold a new pattern paper and trace the adjusted front and back pieces and add your seam and ease allowances.

When done, the front and back skirt will look like these:

ADJUSTING THE SLEEVE PATTERN

Step 1: Mark the various sleeve levels on the sleeve as shown.

Step 2: From the armpit, measure 1/3 of the armhole and mark

Draw a curve to the centre line

Step 3: Measure 10 inches from the curve towards the wrist and mark.

For easy identification, i will label the various parts of the sleeve A-C

Step 4: Cut out the sleeve B

Step 5: Slash and spread the sleeve B. (see here to learn how to slash and spread)

Step 6: Trace your spread on a new pattern paper.

Step 7: Trace out a band from the new sleeve crown as shown below

Step 8: Trace out the band on a new pattern paper. You will need to cut 4 of this band on fold for each sleeve.

Don’t also forget to add seam allowances around your pattern.

Step 9: For sleeve C, also add seam allowances around it, including a hem allowance of 1″

And you are done.

THE ACCESSORIES

In addition to the outfit as we can see in the cover photo, a net fabric was pleated to the side of the side. This should be done during the sewing process.

To see the sewing process of this outfit, please visit here to register for TheQEffectz 2020 Intermediate Class

SEE HOW TO MAKE THE 2ND DRESS HERE

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Published by Quincy

Hi, I'm Quincy, a fashion designer, gist and story writer...Welcome to my blog.I hope you find a home here...kisses!

2 thoughts on “[Free tutorial] HOW TO MAKE A BREASTPADDED STRAIGHT GOWN WITH GATHERED & STRAIGHT SLEEVES

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